The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb 2010 (post 9 of 12)

This is the ninth of twelve posts on the December 2010 Mt. Kilimanjaro climb.

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Friday 10 December 2010

We woke to sad news. As we were having breakfast Yahoo, as usual, came to ask how we were doing. Then, apparently content that we felt fine, told us his mother had died. He said he had to turn back towards Moshi.

Yahoo explained he had nominated two of the crew – Solomon and Ludovick – to lead us for the remainder of the climb.

It was tragic. I imagined how Yahoo would cope. He said his mother had not been ill and was in her fifties. I later learnt she is from Songea, in southern Tanzania.

Later, I worried how we would cope with his replacement, Solomon. But surprisingly, with Jaffar’s profound ability to engage anyone in endless conversation, the rapport with Solomon turned out to be excellent. On our trek to Barranco camp, we walked continuously under the rain, which I found extremely inconvenient. The bonus was, because it was cloudy and foggy, we did not see far ahead of our steep climb towards Lava Tower, the most testing section of today’s trek. I have learnt from experience that what you don’t see during a climb does not intimidate you.

At a certain point after a brief clearing of the fog, I saw the distinct silhouette of Lava Tower, only a short climb away from a stream where Jaffar had asked to take a break. After he said he felt dizzy I suggested he was not drinking enough water and could have been suffering from dehydration. It turned out I was right because in the next days he drank more water and did not experience any dizziness.

I notice a big difference between Jaffar on the ascent and one on a descent.* The former speaks little; the latter has endless stories to tell. Characteristically, I am left behind on descents; my forte, I have discovered, is during climbs.

*Climbing most mountains, particularly while heading towards the summit, involves both climbs and descents across valleys and ridges.

Next: The breakfast climb

Posts related to this one:
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/05/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro_29.html
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/06/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro_4.html

The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb 2010 (post 8 of 12)

This is the eighth of twelve posts on the December 2010 Mt. Kilimanjaro climb.

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Thursday 9 December 2010
Jaffar is in good spirits which, without argument, is the best tool for conquering Kilimanjaro.

When I got out of my tent, I caught a glimpse of Kibo peak, our destination. Kibo has an unusually large quantity of snow cover. I estimated the snow cover, in some sections, was as low as 4,000m. If there is a bonus for climbing during the rainy season, the extra snow cover (also seen on Kilimanjaro’s other peak, Mawenzi, on December 6) has to be it.

As with the past climbs, our group remains the slowest; we maintain a slow but steady pace. The other important principle of climbing Kilimanjaro is taking matters as slowly as possible to conserve much-needed energy for the difficult sections, advice that is especially important for novice climbers.

There is little to write about today except that it is Tanzania’s 49^th independence anniversary commemorations. On TBC radio, the public broadcaster, a primary school student was interviewed and asked what he remembered of Tanzania’s history.

“Vita vya Kagera.” [The Kagera War – the 1978-79 war between Tanzania and Uganda]

 “Vilikuwa mwaka gani?” [When was the war fought?]

“Sikumbuki…” [I don’t remember]

“Vilikuwa mwaka ‘78 na ’79. Unakumbuka chanzo cha vita hivyo?” [They were in ’78 and ’79. Do you remember the cause of the war?]

“Idi Amin alikuwa mkolofi. Sasa Nyelele alikuwa hapendi ukolofi, ndiyo ikabidi wapigane.” [Idi Amin was a troublesome person. Nyerere did not like trouble, so they had to fight].



In my tent, after the hike from Shira 1 to Shira 2 camp where I tuned in to the radio broadcast on Tanzania's 49th commemorations of its independence.

Ever since Jaffar’s first visit to Tanzania, I have consistently avoided dwelling on the past and attempted to focus on the future, but history has a habit of cropping up unexpectedly, even on a Kilimanjaro climb with Jaffar Amin!

Also on the radio today was a rebroadcast of Lt. Alex Nyirenda’s live broadcast from Uhuru Peak on the eve of Independence, 49 years ago.

Next: Tragic news from Moshi.

Posts related to this one:
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/03/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro.html
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/05/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro.html

The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb 2010 (post 7 of 12)

This is the seventh of twelve posts on the December 2010 Mt. Kilimanjaro climb.

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Wednesday 8 December 2010
The second day on the Lemosho route includes a prolonged climb, particularly at a section called the Seven Hills. Before the descent to Shira 1 Camp, I began to worry that, perhaps, this will be the day that I would regret not having adequately prepared myself for this year's climb.

Jaffar Amin, left, takes a break with Yahoo our mountain guide during the Seven Hills climb

Last year Yahoo, our mountain guide, had suggested that I buy a mountain bike to ride prior to climbs for strengthening my leg and thigh muscles. I bought the bike promptly, but I rode it only for several days then resorted to my normal ill-exercised self and this is how I am facing Mt. Kilimanjaro this year.

Jaffar, always adept at engaging any stranger in conversation, kept talking to three climbers during our ascent of the Seven Hills section, one of whom was a Canadian and another, an American. They were climbing with a Tusker team. At a certain point, one of them asked:

"So you are climbing for a charity?"
"Yes," Jaffar responded.
"Which charity?"

I explained that it was not for a particular charity, that we were raising money for a school, and a group of disabled persons.

Jaffar added: "We are also doing a reconciliation of the past, our fathers were the former leaders of Uganda and..."
"Who is your father?"
"Mine, Idi Amin; his, Julius Nyerere."

To which the American replied, "That's a good one." And they walked past us as we continued with our short rest.

I had the impression that the other climber did not believe Jaffar's last response. I found out later that I was right.

Next: Snowfall on Kilimanjaro.

Posts related to this one:
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/01/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro.html
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/05/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro_29.html

The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb 2010 (post 6 of 12)

This is the sixth of twelve posts on the December 2010 Mt. Kilimanjaro climb.

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Tuesday 7 December, 2010
Rather appropriate for the occasion, I had a mountain of tasks to complete in the morning. Yesterday, I failed to log on to the Internet and I thought the system was down. In reality, I found out this morning, I had run out of credit. There were three urgent tasks I had to complete before embarking for the 3rd annual Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb:

• email photos of yesterday's press conference to journalists
• file next week's article for my weekly newspaper column
• email parts photos to equipment manufacturer Hydraform 

I somehow managed and rushed to have breakfast before the restaurant closed. I probably was the last customer to have breakfast. By the time I took my shower Jaffar, Yahoo, our guide, and Ludovick, one of the porters, were already waiting for me in the car.

Jaffar is in good spirits, which is an extremely important character trait ahead of any Kilimanjaro climb. Before we boarded the car he called everyone who was near the car - there were about 15 porters waiting for other clients - and insisted we take a photo together in front of the Land Rover.



Find the Land Rover, if you can. Porters join us for a photo in front of the Land Rover that is completely obstructed from view. Zara's Springlands Hotel at Moshi is an extremely busy location and the starting point for Mt. Kilimanjaro climbs. On most mornings during the high season there are several groups of climbers leaving for Mt. Kilimanjaro through various routes. The porters normally gather each morning at the hotel for the daily departures.

We made our first stop at an equipment rental shop, Gladys Adventure & Safaris to hire extra gear we could not obtain at Zara Tanzania Adventure's Springlands Hotel. Yahoo explained later that a group of over fifty Australian students who were also climbing the mountain, and who were particularly vociferous at night, had depleted Zara's mountain climbing equipment.

When we stopped at the supermarket on the Moshi - Arusha road, one of two policemen on patrol recognized me and later told me he is from Butiama. Later they recognized Jaffar and from their excitement I thought they would have asked for an autograph. They did not.

L-R, the author of this post, Jaffar Amin, and Yahoo, our experienced mountain guide.

It has been raining since yesterday morning and, consequently, the road from Londorossi Gate to the drop-off point at the edge of the forest was so rough and treacherous that we were dropped about 30 minutes' walk from the normal departure point, which we reached at 1600hrs.

Before today, I imagined trekking in the rain presented no extra challenges. I was wrong. The slopes are slippery and physically testing, both on ascents and descents.

Because it was overcast, darkness came quickly and I was the only one who carried a head torch. I had the extra task not only of lighting the path ahead of Yahoo, our guide, but also for Jaffar, in the middle. Furthermore, I also had to light up my own path. It was a case of swinging up for Yahoo, midway for Jaffar, and down at my feet.

At Mti Mkubwa camp I thought I heard Jaffar groaning in pain in his tent, and I feared this year's climb might end early. I was mistaken, because at dinner he seemed fine.

Next: The Seven Hills challenge.

Posts related to this one:
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/01/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro_17.html
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/03/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro.html

Elifariji Lima donates Sh.1.5 million to the recent Kilimanjaro charity climb

Mr. Elifariji Lima has donated a total of Sh.1,500,000/- to the recently concluded Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb. Of the amount, one million shillings goes to the Chief Edward Wanzagi Girls' Secondary School and Shs.500,000/- goes to Bukoba Disabled Assistance Group (Budap).

A woman offloads part of the consignment of cement donated by Elifariji Lima after the 2008 Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb

Mr. Lima also donated cement for construction of students' dormitories following the first Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb in 2008.

Current donors to Chief Edward Wanzagi Girls' Secondary School (CEWGSS):
1. Tanzania Gatsby Trust - Shs.500,000/-
2. Dina Mrango - Shs.100,000/-
3. Notburga Maskini - Shs.100,000/-
4. Elifariji K. Lima - Shs.1,000,000/-

Current donors to Budap:

1. Notburga Maskini - Shs.100,000/-
2. Elifariji K. Lima - Shs.500,000/-

Total donations to CEWGSS: Shs.1,700,000/-
Total donations to Budap: Shs.600,000/-

If you wish to donate, please follow the instructions on the following link:
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2010/12/jaffar-amin-has-arrived-in-moshi-for.html

Post related to this one:
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2010/12/another-donation-to-kilimanjaro-charity.html

The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb 2010 (post 5 of 12)

This is the fifth of twelve posts on the December 2010 Mt. Kilimanjaro climb. 

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Monday 6 December, 2010
The two other members on this year's climb, Mary Kalikawe of Kiroyera Tours and William Rutta of Bukoba Disabled Assistance Group (Budap), who arrived from Arusha today, joined me and Jaffar Amin at Kahawa House for a press conference to publicize the climb. I did not see the articles that emerged from the press conference although someone mentioned seeing the news reports.

After the press conference at Kahawa House, L-R, Mary Kalikawe, Madaraka Nyerere, Jaffar Amin, and William Rutta

After the press conference we crossed over to the open cafe' opposite Kahawa House for coffee and later dispersed. Mary and William begin their climb tomorrow on the 6-day Marangu route while Jaffar and I will embark on the Lemosho 8-day route. I asked them to check their handset in boxes for text messages so that we could communicate during the climb.

Next: The first day of the climb. 

Post related to this one:
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/01/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro_13.html
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/01/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro.html

The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb 2010 (post 4 of 12)

Sunday 5 December 2010
In the morning I moved to the Springlands Hotel, the hotel I have used for the two past annual Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro charity climbs.

Kibo and Mawenzi peaks of Mt. Kilimanjaro, seen from Springlands Hotel in Moshi.

Later I went to the Kilimanjaro International Airport to meet Jaffar Amin who was arriving in the afternoon. He told me he was looking forward to the climb, although he mentioned his concern about his knee joints and mentioned a need for a massage, which he promptly received after he arrived at the hotel.

From the hotel, when the clouds cleared, we saw a clear view of Kilimanjaro, its two peaks Kibo and Mawenzi rising imposingly towards the sky.

Next: The other climbers, Mary Kalikawe and William Rutta, arrive in Moshi

Posts related to this one:
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/01/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro_2.html
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/01/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro_17.html