The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb 2010 (post 11 of 12)

This is the eleventh of twelve posts on the December 2010 Mt. Kilimanjaro climb.

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Sunday 13 December 2010

Unlike last year, this year we were the first group out of Barafu Camp, having left at around 2330hrs.

On the climb we had a breathtaking view of the lights of Moshi down below on a cloudless night. The climb from Barafu Camp to Stella Point on the crater rim remains the more difficult section of the Kilimanjaro climb and there are probably more people who fail on the Barafu – Stella Point climb then in all other sections.

Sometime during the climb, I told Solomon that I experienced great difficulty caused by the frequent stops that we make and suggested I walk ahead but Solomon said it was best to stay together because that would be discouraging to Jaffar. I stayed behind reluctantly but suffered tremendously. I liken the difficulty I faced in resuming the trek after each rest to that of a heavily laden truck that is stopped on a slope and has to be driven uphill. A small car that starts from the same position has little difficulty surging forward. I was the big truck, the others were sedans.

Eventually at some point Solomon decided that I should walk ahead with him while Jaffar and assistant guide, Ludovick, remained behind at a slower pace. We reached Stella Point at 0600hrs as the sun was about to rise from the eastern horizon behind Mawenzi. We reached the spot with a Russian climber, Dimitry, and his guide, Freddy.

L-R, Freddy, an unidentified guide, and Dimitry at Stella Point, just before sunrise.

We reached Uhuru Peak at 0715hrs with a woman and his Tanzanian guide.  I quickly took some photos with Solomon and he left to meet Jaffar and Ludovick. I continued taking some photos as the

The author of this blog shaking hands with Solomon (right) at the summit.

other climber and her guide left the peak. Suddenly I was alone on the peak on a beautiful morning, an experience I did not like one bit. Man is indisputably the most dangerous animal on the planet. So, presumably everyone feels safer alone.  Surprisingly, that is not the case. A human being left alone imagines all types and manners of threats that can threaten his/her existence. I felt that.

But until I would meet other humans that morning, I had set a world record as the person who was located on the highest point of the African continent, a record that stood for at least 43 minutes. 

I began walking quickly towards Stella Point to try and catch up with the two who had left previously. Before reaching Stella Point I met Jaffar, led by Ludovick and tailed by Solomon, slowly making their way towards Uhuru peak. My world record moment was over.

L-R, Ludovick, Jaffar, and Solomon slowly making their way towards Uhuru Peak



As they made their ways towards the peak, Solomon (right) gestures as Jaffar watches. Mt. Meru is in the background.

Jaffar and Solomon pause as they ponder the last stretch towards Uhuru Peak, seen ahead at the topmost point.

At the summit, Jaffar (left), and Solomon.

We parted and I slowly made my way to Stella Point and all the way down to Barafu Camp. Midway, in mid morning, I met with the Tusker Group leading David Shoop to the peak.

Barafu camp

After lunch and a rest at Barafu where Jaffar, Solomon, and Ludovick arrived later, we left for the long trek past Millennium High Camp and a night rest at Mweka Camp. The current news: Musician Remmy Ongala has died.

Next: The final day

Posts linked to this one:
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/06/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro_4.html
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/06/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro_9.html

The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb 2010 (post 10 of 12)

This is the tenth of twelve posts on the December 2010 Mt. Kilimanjaro climb.

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Saturday 11 December 2010

At around 0500hrs I was awoken to what I thought was someone walking to the toilet. The noise first sounded like the shuffle of feet of someone dragging himself to the toilet, but then the noise grew into a constant rumble that seemed to gain both intensity and proximity to the camp. I found out later in the morning that what I heard was a landslide that had dislodged large boulders that careered down the face of the mountain and into a valley that was some distance from Karanga camp.

One of the porters, speaking to his colleagues in the morning, said he also heard the rumbling and was only waiting for the boulders to strike the tent ropes so he would attempt to escape. That would have been too late, I thought.

The view of the mountain from Karanga camp this morning is breathtaking. The sun shone brightly and for the first time since we began the climb, we had breakfast outside the tent.

Jaffar (seated) has breakfast, while the team's cook, Pantaleo, poses for the photo. I had never seen Mt. Kilimanjaro with so much snow cover.

I have discovered that I cannot handle frequent stops, because each time I resume walking from a rest, particularly when the walk resumes with an uphill walk, my heart seems to experience tremendous stress before the heartbeats return to a tolerable pace.

The porters walk past Solomon (second from left) and Jaffar (third from left) during the initial stages of the walk from Karanga to Barafu camps.

I therefore told Solomon (who took up the lead position as guide) and Jaffar that I would walk ahead. With fewer rests I opened up a large gap until they disappeared behind the mist and I trudged along alone, occasionally meeting other porters and climbers.

Alone, but with a camera, I pose for a rest and took my own photograph before walking down the final valley before the steep climb to Barafu camp.

It was a repeat of last year, when I walked ahead of Yahoo, Notburga Maskini, and Gerald Hando on the same stretch between Karanga and Barafu camps. This time I was careful not to over exert myself as I did last year, later to suffer from fatigue during the final assault towards Uhuru peak.

On arrival at Barafu Camp I was told the American climber, who later introduced himself as David Shoop, had asked to meet us and had invited Jaffar and I for lunch. It was during that lunch that David had admitted that when Jaffar mentioned the reconciliation concerning Idi Amin and Julius Nyerere, he had not taken Jaffar’s words seriously. I assume he thought Jaffar was suffering from mountain sickness.

I had earlier in the day told Jaffar that word gets around on Mt. Kilimanjaro quite fast and by the time we complete the climb, news of his presence will have reached far and wide. That news had finally reached David Shoop only hours later. David interviewed us for a Californian periodical which he said could provide much needed publicity for the charity cause we were promoting.

After lunch and the interview. From L-R, I, Jaffar, and David Shoop. Our guide, Solomon, standing behind us.

After lunch we retired to our tents for a few hours' rest before rising at around 2200hrs for dinner and departure for the summit.

There is normally a nervous moment I keep experiencing each time we leave Barafu Camp for the all-night trek towards the summit. It happened again this time, and I had to ask Solomon and Jaffar to walk ahead as I kept on adjusting clothing that somehow seemed not to fit me well.

Next: To the summit

Posts related to this one:

http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/05/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro.html
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/06/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro_6.html

Blogging has become easier for me, I have just discovered

One problem for which I have been seeking a solution is how to post information daily on my blog during my next Kilimanjaro climb, from September 20 - 27. I just found out I have been walking with the solution for at least two years. It is so simple, it is laughable.

I bought a Windows Smart Phone more than two years ago that has the basic features for posting to a blog through an email address provided by Blogger: go@blogger.com. That handset has been with

me to the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro twice. What this means is that now, when I reach the summit in September, I can post the news to my blog within a few minutes of reaching Uhuru peak. I used to report on my past Kilimanjaro climbs after returning home, days after the climb.

There are two challenges (and maybe a third one if dense cloud cover prevents Vodacom’s network from reaching the peak): first, managing in the sub-zero temperatures to remove my gloves, take a shot with the mobile phone and sending both text and image to my blog before the cold becomes unbearable.

The second is that Issa Muhidin Michuzi, journalist and renowned blogger, has also confirmed he will join the September climb. The race between us will be who will be the first to transmit the news from the summit to our respective blogs.

The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb 2010 (post 9 of 12)

This is the ninth of twelve posts on the December 2010 Mt. Kilimanjaro climb.

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Friday 10 December 2010

We woke to sad news. As we were having breakfast Yahoo, as usual, came to ask how we were doing. Then, apparently content that we felt fine, told us his mother had died. He said he had to turn back towards Moshi.

Yahoo explained he had nominated two of the crew – Solomon and Ludovick – to lead us for the remainder of the climb.

It was tragic. I imagined how Yahoo would cope. He said his mother had not been ill and was in her fifties. I later learnt she is from Songea, in southern Tanzania.

Later, I worried how we would cope with his replacement, Solomon. But surprisingly, with Jaffar’s profound ability to engage anyone in endless conversation, the rapport with Solomon turned out to be excellent. On our trek to Barranco camp, we walked continuously under the rain, which I found extremely inconvenient. The bonus was, because it was cloudy and foggy, we did not see far ahead of our steep climb towards Lava Tower, the most testing section of today’s trek. I have learnt from experience that what you don’t see during a climb does not intimidate you.

At a certain point after a brief clearing of the fog, I saw the distinct silhouette of Lava Tower, only a short climb away from a stream where Jaffar had asked to take a break. After he said he felt dizzy I suggested he was not drinking enough water and could have been suffering from dehydration. It turned out I was right because in the next days he drank more water and did not experience any dizziness.

I notice a big difference between Jaffar on the ascent and one on a descent.* The former speaks little; the latter has endless stories to tell. Characteristically, I am left behind on descents; my forte, I have discovered, is during climbs.

*Climbing most mountains, particularly while heading towards the summit, involves both climbs and descents across valleys and ridges.

Next: The breakfast climb

Posts related to this one:
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/05/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro_29.html
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/06/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro_4.html

The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb 2010 (post 8 of 12)

This is the eighth of twelve posts on the December 2010 Mt. Kilimanjaro climb.

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Thursday 9 December 2010
Jaffar is in good spirits which, without argument, is the best tool for conquering Kilimanjaro.

When I got out of my tent, I caught a glimpse of Kibo peak, our destination. Kibo has an unusually large quantity of snow cover. I estimated the snow cover, in some sections, was as low as 4,000m. If there is a bonus for climbing during the rainy season, the extra snow cover (also seen on Kilimanjaro’s other peak, Mawenzi, on December 6) has to be it.

As with the past climbs, our group remains the slowest; we maintain a slow but steady pace. The other important principle of climbing Kilimanjaro is taking matters as slowly as possible to conserve much-needed energy for the difficult sections, advice that is especially important for novice climbers.

There is little to write about today except that it is Tanzania’s 49^th independence anniversary commemorations. On TBC radio, the public broadcaster, a primary school student was interviewed and asked what he remembered of Tanzania’s history.

“Vita vya Kagera.” [The Kagera War – the 1978-79 war between Tanzania and Uganda]

 “Vilikuwa mwaka gani?” [When was the war fought?]

“Sikumbuki…” [I don’t remember]

“Vilikuwa mwaka ‘78 na ’79. Unakumbuka chanzo cha vita hivyo?” [They were in ’78 and ’79. Do you remember the cause of the war?]

“Idi Amin alikuwa mkolofi. Sasa Nyelele alikuwa hapendi ukolofi, ndiyo ikabidi wapigane.” [Idi Amin was a troublesome person. Nyerere did not like trouble, so they had to fight].



In my tent, after the hike from Shira 1 to Shira 2 camp where I tuned in to the radio broadcast on Tanzania's 49th commemorations of its independence.

Ever since Jaffar’s first visit to Tanzania, I have consistently avoided dwelling on the past and attempted to focus on the future, but history has a habit of cropping up unexpectedly, even on a Kilimanjaro climb with Jaffar Amin!

Also on the radio today was a rebroadcast of Lt. Alex Nyirenda’s live broadcast from Uhuru Peak on the eve of Independence, 49 years ago.

Next: Tragic news from Moshi.

Posts related to this one:
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/03/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro.html
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/05/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro.html

The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb 2010 (post 7 of 12)

This is the seventh of twelve posts on the December 2010 Mt. Kilimanjaro climb.

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Wednesday 8 December 2010
The second day on the Lemosho route includes a prolonged climb, particularly at a section called the Seven Hills. Before the descent to Shira 1 Camp, I began to worry that, perhaps, this will be the day that I would regret not having adequately prepared myself for this year's climb.

Jaffar Amin, left, takes a break with Yahoo our mountain guide during the Seven Hills climb

Last year Yahoo, our mountain guide, had suggested that I buy a mountain bike to ride prior to climbs for strengthening my leg and thigh muscles. I bought the bike promptly, but I rode it only for several days then resorted to my normal ill-exercised self and this is how I am facing Mt. Kilimanjaro this year.

Jaffar, always adept at engaging any stranger in conversation, kept talking to three climbers during our ascent of the Seven Hills section, one of whom was a Canadian and another, an American. They were climbing with a Tusker team. At a certain point, one of them asked:

"So you are climbing for a charity?"
"Yes," Jaffar responded.
"Which charity?"

I explained that it was not for a particular charity, that we were raising money for a school, and a group of disabled persons.

Jaffar added: "We are also doing a reconciliation of the past, our fathers were the former leaders of Uganda and..."
"Who is your father?"
"Mine, Idi Amin; his, Julius Nyerere."

To which the American replied, "That's a good one." And they walked past us as we continued with our short rest.

I had the impression that the other climber did not believe Jaffar's last response. I found out later that I was right.

Next: Snowfall on Kilimanjaro.

Posts related to this one:
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/01/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro.html
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/05/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro_29.html

The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb 2010 (post 6 of 12)

This is the sixth of twelve posts on the December 2010 Mt. Kilimanjaro climb.

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Tuesday 7 December, 2010
Rather appropriate for the occasion, I had a mountain of tasks to complete in the morning. Yesterday, I failed to log on to the Internet and I thought the system was down. In reality, I found out this morning, I had run out of credit. There were three urgent tasks I had to complete before embarking for the 3rd annual Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb:

• email photos of yesterday's press conference to journalists
• file next week's article for my weekly newspaper column
• email parts photos to equipment manufacturer Hydraform 

I somehow managed and rushed to have breakfast before the restaurant closed. I probably was the last customer to have breakfast. By the time I took my shower Jaffar, Yahoo, our guide, and Ludovick, one of the porters, were already waiting for me in the car.

Jaffar is in good spirits, which is an extremely important character trait ahead of any Kilimanjaro climb. Before we boarded the car he called everyone who was near the car - there were about 15 porters waiting for other clients - and insisted we take a photo together in front of the Land Rover.



Find the Land Rover, if you can. Porters join us for a photo in front of the Land Rover that is completely obstructed from view. Zara's Springlands Hotel at Moshi is an extremely busy location and the starting point for Mt. Kilimanjaro climbs. On most mornings during the high season there are several groups of climbers leaving for Mt. Kilimanjaro through various routes. The porters normally gather each morning at the hotel for the daily departures.

We made our first stop at an equipment rental shop, Gladys Adventure & Safaris to hire extra gear we could not obtain at Zara Tanzania Adventure's Springlands Hotel. Yahoo explained later that a group of over fifty Australian students who were also climbing the mountain, and who were particularly vociferous at night, had depleted Zara's mountain climbing equipment.

When we stopped at the supermarket on the Moshi - Arusha road, one of two policemen on patrol recognized me and later told me he is from Butiama. Later they recognized Jaffar and from their excitement I thought they would have asked for an autograph. They did not.

L-R, the author of this post, Jaffar Amin, and Yahoo, our experienced mountain guide.

It has been raining since yesterday morning and, consequently, the road from Londorossi Gate to the drop-off point at the edge of the forest was so rough and treacherous that we were dropped about 30 minutes' walk from the normal departure point, which we reached at 1600hrs.

Before today, I imagined trekking in the rain presented no extra challenges. I was wrong. The slopes are slippery and physically testing, both on ascents and descents.

Because it was overcast, darkness came quickly and I was the only one who carried a head torch. I had the extra task not only of lighting the path ahead of Yahoo, our guide, but also for Jaffar, in the middle. Furthermore, I also had to light up my own path. It was a case of swinging up for Yahoo, midway for Jaffar, and down at my feet.

At Mti Mkubwa camp I thought I heard Jaffar groaning in pain in his tent, and I feared this year's climb might end early. I was mistaken, because at dinner he seemed fine.

Next: The Seven Hills challenge.

Posts related to this one:
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/01/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro_17.html
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/03/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro.html