That perennial question of motivation for training

Remember one of my recent posts announcing that I am resuming training? Read here. It has not happened. The training, that is.

The training was as brief as the post. But I am not giving up. It's all in the spirit of facing the challenge of climbing a mountain. Giving up should not be in the climber's vocabulary, but props up regularly all the way to the summit.

To seasoned mountaineers, climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro is an easy task, but to any ordinary individual who has little training, Mt Kilimanjaro is a tough proposition.

So, as I prepare myself (again!) for the next climb, probably in June 2017, I applaud those who did not give up and reached the summit. I equally applaud those who tried as much as they could but did not reach the summit.

Reaching the summit is great achievement, but it is not everything.

Snowfall in Maryland

I am spending some time in the state of Maryland in the United States and a sudden snowfall triggered memories of home, in more than one way.

I forwarded a photo I snapped from the kitchen window, below, to friends and joked that I had a

 feeling that it was time to go home alluding to the fact that 'home' was warm and sunny and amenable to strolling down the main village road and catching a conversation with friends and acquaintances, or where Zebras roam the plains, whereas in Maryland (at least where I am) it made more sense to remain inside than venture out into the cold weather.

...where Zebras roam the plains.

The flip side of 'home' is where it is much colder than what I am experiencing at the moment: Mt. Kilimanjaro. on reflection, I gradually moved from my stereotypical depiction of home to a more balanced depiction of what Tanzania is: warm in some places, and bitterly cold in others.

A climber, right, with two Tanzanian guides at Stella Point (5,685m) on Mt. Kilimanjaro.

And, surprisingly, I miss both of them.

The late Alex Nyirenda Remembered

It is the fifth death anniversary today of Brig. Alex Gwebe Nyirenda who died in Dar es Salaam from throat cancer.

At the eve of Tanzania's independence, Brig. Nyirenda hoisted Tanzania's flag (then Tanganyika) on the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro as the Union Jack was lowered at the National Stadium in Dar es Salaam.

Lt. Alex Nyirenda, with Tanganyika's flag and the Uhuru torch, at the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro on the eve of Tanzania's independence, 9 December 1961 (Photo courtesy of Tanzania Information Services)

Two years earlier on 22nd October 1959, former President Julius K. Nyerere, in a speech to the Tanganyika Legislative Assembly, said the following:

We the people of Tanganyika, would like to light a candle and put it on top of Mount Kilimanjaro which would shine beyond our borders giving hope where there was despair, love where there was hate, and dignity where there was before only humiliation.

That candle (which came to be known to Tanzanians as the Uhuru torch) was placed on Mt. Kilimanjaro by Nyirenda, and signalled Tanzania's long and unwavering commitment to the liberation struggle of those African countries that remained in the early sixties under colonialism and white minority rule.

Brig. Nyirenda was the first Tanganyikan in 1958 to graduate from Sandhurst Military Academy in England. He also became, prior to independence, the first African to become an officer in the King's African Rifles.

He was also related, through a common ancestor, to former Zambian President, Dr. Kenneth Kaunda, which is a stark reminder to Africans that they are often closer to each other than artificial boundaries would indicate.

Here's a question: where do you get the best view of Mt. Kilimanjaro? Kenya or Tanzania?

Someone at Jamii Forums recently raised a question: where is the best view of Mt. Kilimanjaro; is it from the Kenyan or the Tanzanian side? This commentator suspects there is a conspiracy by Kenyans to lure tourists to Kenya and thus the reason why such a question has surfaced.

This question should not be asked. The view of Mt. Kilimanjaro from the Kenyan side is slightly different from the view from Tanzania. From Tanzania Kibo peak is on the left side while Mawenzi peak is on the right side. From Kenya the two peaks take opposite positions, Kibo on the right and Mawenzi on the left. If anyone prefers the Kenyan view it is outrageous to claim that Tanzania offers the better view.

Kibo peak, seen from Karanga camp on the Lemosho route.

I repeat, again, that this Tanzanian pastime of accusing the Kenyans of getting more out of Mt. Kilimanjaro than Tanzanians while Tanzanians do little more than complain provides no improvement whatsoever to our prosperity.

I believe that the visitor who has traveled from abroad for the purpose of climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro cares little whether this World Heritage site is in Kenya, Tanzania, or on Jupiter. The visitor is interested in the mountain and not so much on where Kenya ends and Tanzania begins.

I have climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro a number of times and the truth is that comparatively few Tanzanians climb this mountain compared to foreigners. On Mt. Kilimanjaro Tanzanians are the visitors while the foreigners can claim to be the hosts because of their large numbers. Recently on the Marangu route I even met a large group of Kenyans heading to the summit.

I would be extremely pleased to see some of these complainants don some mountain gear and join me on the next climb. Afterwards they can speak with authority and conviction on the beauty of Mt. Kilimanjaro instead of complaining and asking awkward questions.

One thing they will learn is that the best views of Mt. Kilimanjaro are right on the mountain itself. But that is only my opinion.

Kibo and Mawenzi

When one gets over the initial challenge of climbing a mountain, there are two possible outcomes: one either becomes engulfed and takes interest in mountains wherever they appear, or one becomes totally repulsed by the initial experience and does not want to come close to even an anthill.

Mt. Kilimanjaro with Kibo, on the left, and Mawenzi, on the right as seen from Moshi.

I believe I am one of those in the former group and, had I started climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro twenty years ago, I would certainly have attempted the Seven Summits challenge, climbing the seven highest mountains of each of the seven continents.

The highest peak of Mt. Kilimanjaro is on Kibo.

A dearth of African names on Mt. Kilimanjaro

Africa's highest peak, Mt. Kilimanjaro, has a lot of non-African names. In fact someone unfamiliar with the mountain who glances at the glacier names on the mountain's map can be mistaken he is observing a map of a European summit.

Rebmann Glacier is named after German explorer and missionary, Johann Rebmann who first reported seeing the snow-capped mountain rise above the African plains in 1848. Hans Meyer has a memorial on Mt. Kilimanjaro in recognition of being the first European to reach Mt. Kilimanjaro's summit. Furtwängler Glacier is named after Walter Furtwängler who, with Siegfried König, were the fourth to reach the summit in 1912. There are several other glaciers with non-African names: Credner, Drygalski, Ratzel, Decken, Heim, and Balleto.

A section of Furtwängler Glacier as seen from Crater Camp.

Even when they ran out of names, the namers decided that some of glaciers will have combinations of English words: there is a Northern Icefield and a Southern Icefield.

When Hans Meyer reached the summit in 1889 he was accompanied by nine porters, a guide, a cook, and two local headmen. None of them is known by name, but it is believed that one of them was Yohani Kinyala Lauwo who died in Marangu on the slopes of Mt. Kilimanjaro in 1996 at an estimated age of 125 years.

Apparently there is a place on Mt. Kilimanjaro named after him: Yohana's Notch. But I have difficulty finding its location on any map. Which could be a good reason to rename one of those "polar" icefields (Northern Icefield, and Southern Icefield) after him.

Mt. Kilimanjaro as seen from Longido

While on a study tour of the Cultural Tourism Enterprise at Longido near the Kenyan border in February 2011, I woke up and looked through the window and saw a silhouette of a mountain against the rising sun. Having taken an interest in mountains and mountaineering in recent years since I first climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro in 2008 I took out my camera and as I held it up against the window of my guest house bedroom two children who were walking with pails on their way to fetch water, a boy and a girl, came into view on my viewfinder and the boy shouted at me saying, “That’s a very bad habit.”

Mt. Kilimanjaro as seen from Longido.

I did not respond, but angrily waved him to rush out of my camera’s sight and took this photo. It was only after I observed the photo days later did I realize I had a photo of Mt. Kilimanjaro. I had never observed the mountain from the western side as far west as Longido.

Yes, Mt. Kilimanjaro is in Tanzania and Hans Meyer is from Leipzig

Last year the best elements converge to enable me for put together an interesting blog post but I did not find out until much later. Maybe not of interest to everyone, but certainly of interest to people who read about Mt. Kilimanjaro.

I visited the German city of Leipzig in November 2011 and my visit had a lot to do with Mt. Kilimanjaro. I visited Benjamin Leers and Maurice Housni with whom in December 2011 I climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro while they filmed a documentary that is about to be released. To promote the climb and the documentary, we were interviewed at a radio station. Mt. Kilimanjaro was on the subject of most conversations during those few days I was in Leipzig.

Several months after I returned to Tanzania I discovered that the genesis of the mountaineering chronology of Mt. Kilimanjaro is rooted in Leipzig. Hans Meyer (1858 - 1929) was the first European to reach the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro on 6th October 1889.

The monument at Marangu Gate on Mt. Kilimanjaro in honour of Hans Meyer.

He worked at his father's publishing house in Leipzig and later became a professor at the University of Leipzig. He was buried in Leipzig.

Meyer reached the summit with Austrian mountaineer Ludwig Purtscheller. Their climbing team included nine porters, a cook, and a guide called Yohani Kinyala Lauwo (1871 - 1996). Lauwo is described in some literature as the first person to reach the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro.

Next to Hans Meyer's monument at Marangu Gate is a monument that honours Yohani Kinyala Lauwo and his team of porters who accompanied Hans Meyer to Mt. Kilimanjaro's summit. 

The weather in Moshi

Moshi is the Tanzanian city from where most Kilimanjaro climbs begin. It is regularly mentioned as one of the cleanest cities in Tanzania. It rests between 700 and 950m above sea level.

It is mostly cloudy in Moshi. The temperature is just above 26° Centigrade. There is a slight wind.

Mt. Kilimanjaro (in the background) is covered by thick rain clouds, and the ceiling is probably as low as 1,500m.

Posts related to this one:
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/01/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro_13.html
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/01/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro.html
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2008/10/why-i-quit-smoking-my-kilimanjaro-climb_23.html

posted from Bloggeroid

The weather in Moshi

It is 27° Centigrade in Moshi and cloudy. It is raining on Mt. Kilimanjaro.

posted from Bloggeroid

The forest below Mt. Kilimanjaro

The last day of most Mt. Kilimanjaro climbs involves a trek through lush forest from Mweka Camp to Mweka Gate.

It is rich in exotic plants. I have just completed the annual Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Climb. Posts of the annual event will appear in this blog within the next few day

We are on our way to the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro

We have just arrived at the registration point, at Londorssi Gate, on our first day of the Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb.

The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb 2010 (post 11 of 12)

This is the eleventh of twelve posts on the December 2010 Mt. Kilimanjaro climb.

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Sunday 13 December 2010

Unlike last year, this year we were the first group out of Barafu Camp, having left at around 2330hrs.

On the climb we had a breathtaking view of the lights of Moshi down below on a cloudless night. The climb from Barafu Camp to Stella Point on the crater rim remains the more difficult section of the Kilimanjaro climb and there are probably more people who fail on the Barafu – Stella Point climb then in all other sections.

Sometime during the climb, I told Solomon that I experienced great difficulty caused by the frequent stops that we make and suggested I walk ahead but Solomon said it was best to stay together because that would be discouraging to Jaffar. I stayed behind reluctantly but suffered tremendously. I liken the difficulty I faced in resuming the trek after each rest to that of a heavily laden truck that is stopped on a slope and has to be driven uphill. A small car that starts from the same position has little difficulty surging forward. I was the big truck, the others were sedans.

Eventually at some point Solomon decided that I should walk ahead with him while Jaffar and assistant guide, Ludovick, remained behind at a slower pace. We reached Stella Point at 0600hrs as the sun was about to rise from the eastern horizon behind Mawenzi. We reached the spot with a Russian climber, Dimitry, and his guide, Freddy.

L-R, Freddy, an unidentified guide, and Dimitry at Stella Point, just before sunrise.

We reached Uhuru Peak at 0715hrs with a woman and his Tanzanian guide.  I quickly took some photos with Solomon and he left to meet Jaffar and Ludovick. I continued taking some photos as the

The author of this blog shaking hands with Solomon (right) at the summit.

other climber and her guide left the peak. Suddenly I was alone on the peak on a beautiful morning, an experience I did not like one bit. Man is indisputably the most dangerous animal on the planet. So, presumably everyone feels safer alone.  Surprisingly, that is not the case. A human being left alone imagines all types and manners of threats that can threaten his/her existence. I felt that.

But until I would meet other humans that morning, I had set a world record as the person who was located on the highest point of the African continent, a record that stood for at least 43 minutes. 

I began walking quickly towards Stella Point to try and catch up with the two who had left previously. Before reaching Stella Point I met Jaffar, led by Ludovick and tailed by Solomon, slowly making their way towards Uhuru peak. My world record moment was over.

L-R, Ludovick, Jaffar, and Solomon slowly making their way towards Uhuru Peak



As they made their ways towards the peak, Solomon (right) gestures as Jaffar watches. Mt. Meru is in the background.

Jaffar and Solomon pause as they ponder the last stretch towards Uhuru Peak, seen ahead at the topmost point.

At the summit, Jaffar (left), and Solomon.

We parted and I slowly made my way to Stella Point and all the way down to Barafu Camp. Midway, in mid morning, I met with the Tusker Group leading David Shoop to the peak.

Barafu camp

After lunch and a rest at Barafu where Jaffar, Solomon, and Ludovick arrived later, we left for the long trek past Millennium High Camp and a night rest at Mweka Camp. The current news: Musician Remmy Ongala has died.

Next: The final day

Posts linked to this one:
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/06/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro_4.html
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/06/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro_9.html

The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb 2010 (post 10 of 12)

This is the tenth of twelve posts on the December 2010 Mt. Kilimanjaro climb.

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Saturday 11 December 2010

At around 0500hrs I was awoken to what I thought was someone walking to the toilet. The noise first sounded like the shuffle of feet of someone dragging himself to the toilet, but then the noise grew into a constant rumble that seemed to gain both intensity and proximity to the camp. I found out later in the morning that what I heard was a landslide that had dislodged large boulders that careered down the face of the mountain and into a valley that was some distance from Karanga camp.

One of the porters, speaking to his colleagues in the morning, said he also heard the rumbling and was only waiting for the boulders to strike the tent ropes so he would attempt to escape. That would have been too late, I thought.

The view of the mountain from Karanga camp this morning is breathtaking. The sun shone brightly and for the first time since we began the climb, we had breakfast outside the tent.

Jaffar (seated) has breakfast, while the team's cook, Pantaleo, poses for the photo. I had never seen Mt. Kilimanjaro with so much snow cover.

I have discovered that I cannot handle frequent stops, because each time I resume walking from a rest, particularly when the walk resumes with an uphill walk, my heart seems to experience tremendous stress before the heartbeats return to a tolerable pace.

The porters walk past Solomon (second from left) and Jaffar (third from left) during the initial stages of the walk from Karanga to Barafu camps.

I therefore told Solomon (who took up the lead position as guide) and Jaffar that I would walk ahead. With fewer rests I opened up a large gap until they disappeared behind the mist and I trudged along alone, occasionally meeting other porters and climbers.

Alone, but with a camera, I pose for a rest and took my own photograph before walking down the final valley before the steep climb to Barafu camp.

It was a repeat of last year, when I walked ahead of Yahoo, Notburga Maskini, and Gerald Hando on the same stretch between Karanga and Barafu camps. This time I was careful not to over exert myself as I did last year, later to suffer from fatigue during the final assault towards Uhuru peak.

On arrival at Barafu Camp I was told the American climber, who later introduced himself as David Shoop, had asked to meet us and had invited Jaffar and I for lunch. It was during that lunch that David had admitted that when Jaffar mentioned the reconciliation concerning Idi Amin and Julius Nyerere, he had not taken Jaffar’s words seriously. I assume he thought Jaffar was suffering from mountain sickness.

I had earlier in the day told Jaffar that word gets around on Mt. Kilimanjaro quite fast and by the time we complete the climb, news of his presence will have reached far and wide. That news had finally reached David Shoop only hours later. David interviewed us for a Californian periodical which he said could provide much needed publicity for the charity cause we were promoting.

After lunch and the interview. From L-R, I, Jaffar, and David Shoop. Our guide, Solomon, standing behind us.

After lunch we retired to our tents for a few hours' rest before rising at around 2200hrs for dinner and departure for the summit.

There is normally a nervous moment I keep experiencing each time we leave Barafu Camp for the all-night trek towards the summit. It happened again this time, and I had to ask Solomon and Jaffar to walk ahead as I kept on adjusting clothing that somehow seemed not to fit me well.

Next: To the summit

Posts related to this one:

http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/05/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro.html
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/06/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro_6.html

Blogging has become easier for me, I have just discovered

One problem for which I have been seeking a solution is how to post information daily on my blog during my next Kilimanjaro climb, from September 20 - 27. I just found out I have been walking with the solution for at least two years. It is so simple, it is laughable.

I bought a Windows Smart Phone more than two years ago that has the basic features for posting to a blog through an email address provided by Blogger: go@blogger.com. That handset has been with

me to the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro twice. What this means is that now, when I reach the summit in September, I can post the news to my blog within a few minutes of reaching Uhuru peak. I used to report on my past Kilimanjaro climbs after returning home, days after the climb.

There are two challenges (and maybe a third one if dense cloud cover prevents Vodacom’s network from reaching the peak): first, managing in the sub-zero temperatures to remove my gloves, take a shot with the mobile phone and sending both text and image to my blog before the cold becomes unbearable.

The second is that Issa Muhidin Michuzi, journalist and renowned blogger, has also confirmed he will join the September climb. The race between us will be who will be the first to transmit the news from the summit to our respective blogs.

The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb 2010 (post 9 of 12)

This is the ninth of twelve posts on the December 2010 Mt. Kilimanjaro climb.

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Friday 10 December 2010

We woke to sad news. As we were having breakfast Yahoo, as usual, came to ask how we were doing. Then, apparently content that we felt fine, told us his mother had died. He said he had to turn back towards Moshi.

Yahoo explained he had nominated two of the crew – Solomon and Ludovick – to lead us for the remainder of the climb.

It was tragic. I imagined how Yahoo would cope. He said his mother had not been ill and was in her fifties. I later learnt she is from Songea, in southern Tanzania.

Later, I worried how we would cope with his replacement, Solomon. But surprisingly, with Jaffar’s profound ability to engage anyone in endless conversation, the rapport with Solomon turned out to be excellent. On our trek to Barranco camp, we walked continuously under the rain, which I found extremely inconvenient. The bonus was, because it was cloudy and foggy, we did not see far ahead of our steep climb towards Lava Tower, the most testing section of today’s trek. I have learnt from experience that what you don’t see during a climb does not intimidate you.

At a certain point after a brief clearing of the fog, I saw the distinct silhouette of Lava Tower, only a short climb away from a stream where Jaffar had asked to take a break. After he said he felt dizzy I suggested he was not drinking enough water and could have been suffering from dehydration. It turned out I was right because in the next days he drank more water and did not experience any dizziness.

I notice a big difference between Jaffar on the ascent and one on a descent.* The former speaks little; the latter has endless stories to tell. Characteristically, I am left behind on descents; my forte, I have discovered, is during climbs.

*Climbing most mountains, particularly while heading towards the summit, involves both climbs and descents across valleys and ridges.

Next: The breakfast climb

Posts related to this one:
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/05/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro_29.html
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/06/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro_4.html

The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb 2010 (post 8 of 12)

This is the eighth of twelve posts on the December 2010 Mt. Kilimanjaro climb.

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Thursday 9 December 2010
Jaffar is in good spirits which, without argument, is the best tool for conquering Kilimanjaro.

When I got out of my tent, I caught a glimpse of Kibo peak, our destination. Kibo has an unusually large quantity of snow cover. I estimated the snow cover, in some sections, was as low as 4,000m. If there is a bonus for climbing during the rainy season, the extra snow cover (also seen on Kilimanjaro’s other peak, Mawenzi, on December 6) has to be it.

As with the past climbs, our group remains the slowest; we maintain a slow but steady pace. The other important principle of climbing Kilimanjaro is taking matters as slowly as possible to conserve much-needed energy for the difficult sections, advice that is especially important for novice climbers.

There is little to write about today except that it is Tanzania’s 49^th independence anniversary commemorations. On TBC radio, the public broadcaster, a primary school student was interviewed and asked what he remembered of Tanzania’s history.

“Vita vya Kagera.” [The Kagera War – the 1978-79 war between Tanzania and Uganda]

 “Vilikuwa mwaka gani?” [When was the war fought?]

“Sikumbuki…” [I don’t remember]

“Vilikuwa mwaka ‘78 na ’79. Unakumbuka chanzo cha vita hivyo?” [They were in ’78 and ’79. Do you remember the cause of the war?]

“Idi Amin alikuwa mkolofi. Sasa Nyelele alikuwa hapendi ukolofi, ndiyo ikabidi wapigane.” [Idi Amin was a troublesome person. Nyerere did not like trouble, so they had to fight].



In my tent, after the hike from Shira 1 to Shira 2 camp where I tuned in to the radio broadcast on Tanzania's 49th commemorations of its independence.

Ever since Jaffar’s first visit to Tanzania, I have consistently avoided dwelling on the past and attempted to focus on the future, but history has a habit of cropping up unexpectedly, even on a Kilimanjaro climb with Jaffar Amin!

Also on the radio today was a rebroadcast of Lt. Alex Nyirenda’s live broadcast from Uhuru Peak on the eve of Independence, 49 years ago.

Next: Tragic news from Moshi.

Posts related to this one:
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/03/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro.html
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/05/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro.html

The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb 2010 (post 7 of 12)

This is the seventh of twelve posts on the December 2010 Mt. Kilimanjaro climb.

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Wednesday 8 December 2010
The second day on the Lemosho route includes a prolonged climb, particularly at a section called the Seven Hills. Before the descent to Shira 1 Camp, I began to worry that, perhaps, this will be the day that I would regret not having adequately prepared myself for this year's climb.

Jaffar Amin, left, takes a break with Yahoo our mountain guide during the Seven Hills climb

Last year Yahoo, our mountain guide, had suggested that I buy a mountain bike to ride prior to climbs for strengthening my leg and thigh muscles. I bought the bike promptly, but I rode it only for several days then resorted to my normal ill-exercised self and this is how I am facing Mt. Kilimanjaro this year.

Jaffar, always adept at engaging any stranger in conversation, kept talking to three climbers during our ascent of the Seven Hills section, one of whom was a Canadian and another, an American. They were climbing with a Tusker team. At a certain point, one of them asked:

"So you are climbing for a charity?"
"Yes," Jaffar responded.
"Which charity?"

I explained that it was not for a particular charity, that we were raising money for a school, and a group of disabled persons.

Jaffar added: "We are also doing a reconciliation of the past, our fathers were the former leaders of Uganda and..."
"Who is your father?"
"Mine, Idi Amin; his, Julius Nyerere."

To which the American replied, "That's a good one." And they walked past us as we continued with our short rest.

I had the impression that the other climber did not believe Jaffar's last response. I found out later that I was right.

Next: Snowfall on Kilimanjaro.

Posts related to this one:
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/01/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro.html
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/05/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro_29.html

The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb 2010 (post 6 of 12)

This is the sixth of twelve posts on the December 2010 Mt. Kilimanjaro climb.

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Tuesday 7 December, 2010
Rather appropriate for the occasion, I had a mountain of tasks to complete in the morning. Yesterday, I failed to log on to the Internet and I thought the system was down. In reality, I found out this morning, I had run out of credit. There were three urgent tasks I had to complete before embarking for the 3rd annual Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb:

• email photos of yesterday's press conference to journalists
• file next week's article for my weekly newspaper column
• email parts photos to equipment manufacturer Hydraform 

I somehow managed and rushed to have breakfast before the restaurant closed. I probably was the last customer to have breakfast. By the time I took my shower Jaffar, Yahoo, our guide, and Ludovick, one of the porters, were already waiting for me in the car.

Jaffar is in good spirits, which is an extremely important character trait ahead of any Kilimanjaro climb. Before we boarded the car he called everyone who was near the car - there were about 15 porters waiting for other clients - and insisted we take a photo together in front of the Land Rover.



Find the Land Rover, if you can. Porters join us for a photo in front of the Land Rover that is completely obstructed from view. Zara's Springlands Hotel at Moshi is an extremely busy location and the starting point for Mt. Kilimanjaro climbs. On most mornings during the high season there are several groups of climbers leaving for Mt. Kilimanjaro through various routes. The porters normally gather each morning at the hotel for the daily departures.

We made our first stop at an equipment rental shop, Gladys Adventure & Safaris to hire extra gear we could not obtain at Zara Tanzania Adventure's Springlands Hotel. Yahoo explained later that a group of over fifty Australian students who were also climbing the mountain, and who were particularly vociferous at night, had depleted Zara's mountain climbing equipment.

When we stopped at the supermarket on the Moshi - Arusha road, one of two policemen on patrol recognized me and later told me he is from Butiama. Later they recognized Jaffar and from their excitement I thought they would have asked for an autograph. They did not.

L-R, the author of this post, Jaffar Amin, and Yahoo, our experienced mountain guide.

It has been raining since yesterday morning and, consequently, the road from Londorossi Gate to the drop-off point at the edge of the forest was so rough and treacherous that we were dropped about 30 minutes' walk from the normal departure point, which we reached at 1600hrs.

Before today, I imagined trekking in the rain presented no extra challenges. I was wrong. The slopes are slippery and physically testing, both on ascents and descents.

Because it was overcast, darkness came quickly and I was the only one who carried a head torch. I had the extra task not only of lighting the path ahead of Yahoo, our guide, but also for Jaffar, in the middle. Furthermore, I also had to light up my own path. It was a case of swinging up for Yahoo, midway for Jaffar, and down at my feet.

At Mti Mkubwa camp I thought I heard Jaffar groaning in pain in his tent, and I feared this year's climb might end early. I was mistaken, because at dinner he seemed fine.

Next: The Seven Hills challenge.

Posts related to this one:
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/01/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro_17.html
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/03/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro.html

Jaffar Amin and I reach the top of Mt. Kilimanjaro in charity climb

An indispensable factor that helps climbers reach the top of Mt. Kilimanjaro, the world's tallest free standing mountain, are the mountain guides.

 Mountain guide Solomon (left) and his counterpart, Ludovick (right) are dwarfed by Jaffar Amin (centre) moments before reaching Mt. Kilimanjaro's summit at 5,896m above sea level. In the background, the Southern Icefield.

Yesterday morning, through the guidance of Solomon (on the left of the photo) and Ludovick (on the right), I and Jaffar Amin reached the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro in this year's Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb.

Having seen a preview of this photograph Solomon commented, "This guy is huge. Look at us. We look like chicks!" [the fowl version].

Posts related to this one:
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2010/12/jaffar-amin-has-arrived-in-moshi-for.html
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2010/12/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro_19.html