Monday, 4 July 2011

My visit to one beneficiary of last year's Kilimanjaro climb

During last year’s Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Climb, I was joined by Mary Kalikawe from Kiroyera Tours and William Rutta of the Bukoba Disabled Assistance Project (BUDAP), a Bukoba-based organization formed in 2005 to provide “…appropriate training and employment in the production of handicrafts and related products” for its members, who are predominantly victims of polio.

BUDAP’s products include traditional drums, and handbags made from traditional African khanga and kitenge cloth.

After the climb I visited Bukoba and BUDAP’s premises near the Bukoba airport. I met some of BUDAP’s members and shared with them stories (only true ones) of the adventures of climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro.
In the photograph, from left to right: Baraka, Ashirafu, Themistocles, the author of this post, and Elias.

If you wish to donate to BUDAP you can contact them through:

Bukoba Disabled Assistance Project (BUDAP)
P.O. Box 485
Bukoba - Tanzania.

Wednesday, 22 June 2011

Travel options to Mt. Kilimanjaro: to hitch a ride across the Serengeti or to fly?

This post, is a continuation of my older posts from my other blog From Butiama and Beyond. Traveling between where I live and the starting point of the Kilimanjaro climb always presents challenges. 
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I arrived in Moshi last night, having failed to cross the Serengeti National Park by car at a cost of 23 US dolllars. Placing reliance on cars that may or may not pass through Ndabaka Gate, the western entrance to the Serengeti National Park, was like playing the lottery.

In the morning I decided to board a bus from Lamadi, the small town close to Ndabaka Gate, for Mwanza from where I took an afternoon flight to Mwanza. In the end I did not see a single wild animal and paid much more than the 23 dollars I budgeted for. But I can still say I crossed the Serengeti - at 5000m above sea level.

And staying at Lamadi gave me an idea about writing a guidebook on budget travel. I stayed at the Nima Delux Guest House for 9,000 shillings (6 US dollars). At Mama Mniko's I ate a meal of rice, beans, and
Balala fried fish for 1,300 shillings (0.86 US dollars). Bus fare to Mwanza 3,000 shillings (2 US dollars).
At Mama Mniko's where a plate of food sells for Shs.1,300/-.



Inside my room at Nima Delux Guest House, Lamadi.
Then the final expense item and a reminder that plans do not always unfold as expected, I paid 220,000 shillings (147 US dollars) for the flight from Mwanza to the Kilimanjaro International Airport.


Posts related to this one:
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2011/06/across-serengeti-again.html
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2011/06/serengeti-crossing-not-yet-i-settle-for.html
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2011/06/through-serengeti-this-time-from.html

Saturday, 18 June 2011

Mary Kalikawe and William Rutta reach the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro: post 4 of 4

Mary Kalikawe is the Managing Director of Kiroyera Consulting, a tourism company based in Bukoba which opened a branch office in Mwanza in 2010. She joined the 3rd Annual Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Climb in December 2010. 

While I set off from the west with Jaffar Amin from Londrossi Gate on 7th December 2010 on the Lemosho route, Mary and William Rutta also set off from the east from Marangu Gate on the Machame route. 

In this fourth and final post she shares her experience of climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro.

Mary Kalikawe
The guides are well trained to handle climbers. Considering how tired they themselves are at that point, it is commendable how they keep up the words of encouragement with the sole aim of getting you to reach your ultimate goal, Uhuru Peak. The guide constantly talks to you out of falling asleep on the steep slopes telling you it is most dangerous and could be fatal.

Coming to the financial price of an individual climbing the mountain, I must say it is a formidable challenge for ordinary Tanzanians to get the thrills of climbing Mt Kilimanjaro. Putting together my air fare from Mwanza, the fees paid to the tour operator, hotel and food in Moshi, tips and cost of mountain gear I come to a whooping 1 million shillings. Consider that this is for a Tanzanian who pays only a negligible rate of only Shs. 1,500 daily park fees to the Kilimanjaro National Park Authority. The rest is for the guides, porters for whom you have to have at least five, accommodation, food and transfers from Moshi to the mountain gate.
There are many ways of saying you reached the Summit. William Rutta sports a t-shirt with the message.
Kilimanjaro is not for the faint-hearted nor is it for a Tanzanian with an average income. It is still early, we are still requesting contributions to BUDAP and to Chief Wanzagi’s Girls School. Payments are to be made directly to the accounts of the two beneficiaries.
Account Name: BUDAP, Ac. No. 027201092625 Bank: National Bank of Commerce (NBC), Bukoba Branch, and to Chief Edward Wanzagi Girls’ Secondary School Ac. No. 030201191529, Bank: National Bank of Commerce (NBC), Musoma Branch.
Do make a donation if you can. It will go a long way towards meeting our fundraising goals for the Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climbing 2010.

Posts related to this one:
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/06/mary-kalikawe-and-william-rutta-reach_16.html
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/06/mary-kalikawe-and-william-rutta-reach_14.html

Friday, 17 June 2011

Mary Kalikawe and William Rutta reach the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro: post 3 of 4

Mary Kalikawe is the Managing Director of Kiroyera Consulting, a tourism company based in Bukoba which opened a branch office in Mwanza in 2010. She joined the 3rd Annual Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Climb in December 2010. 

While I set off from the west with Jaffar Amin from Londrossi Gate on 7th December 2010 on the Lemosho route, Mary and William Rutta also set off from the east from Marangu Gate on the Machame route. 

In this third of four posts she shares her experience of climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro.

Mary Kalikawe
Mount Kilimanjaro climbing was very haaard!! While Jaffar and Madaraka climbed on the Lemosho route, I and William used the Marangu route, the narrow heavily-trodden path between that goes through the Horombo and Mandara Huts. I had left the gruesome climb behind and felt pain in my legs and thighs but smelling ‘triumph’ and longing to tell the whole world about my success in reaching the almost “unreachable” Uhuru Peak at my age of beyond forty!

On the steep slopes during the night climb to the summit, the mountain guides and porters who had been with us during the climb on previous days hugged me to avert a fatal fall backwards on the steep slopes down the mountain. Their jackets stunk of sweat. Mind you, we had been without bathing for five days. I guess I too was not smelling of roses. We continued through the night and after seven hours of excessive endurance beyond what I could ever imagine was within my capability, we had reached Gilman's Point!
At Gilman's Point: One down, one to go.
Gilman’s Point is the first point on the peak that is 200m lower than Uhuru Peak, the highest point of Kilimanjaro and of the whole of Africa. From that point I still had another three hours of climbing to get to Uhuru Peak. Those who saw my slow pace did not believe I could come this far! Scores of people who began with us at midnight had turned back due to fatigue, bad weather, and sheer fear.

The question ‘why am I torturing?’ myself kept ringing in my head. There are many possible answers. For one thing, the panorama at Gilman's point is a reward worth exerting for. The glaciers in the foreground of the deep crater valleys, the snow covered rugged surfaces and, above all, the much needed cup of tea served by my mountain guide Deo were all energy infusing.

At this point I made the decision to reach Uhuru peak for enjoying the glory of it. The contributions to BUDAP and Chief Edward Wanzagi’s School did not demand that I get up to Uhuru Peak. Gilman’s Point was a lot more than enough. But the guide, in disbelief, but seeing my renewed energy and enthusiasm to proceed said it will be an hour to Stella Point, two hours to Uhuru peak.
Finally, I reached Uhuru Peak, the highest point on the African continent.
I did it! And got a milliard accolades of congratulations but my guide was the brunt of a thousand complaints over factors he could not control: Why was the Uhuru peak signboard so far? Why do we still have to climb, didn’t you say we are almost there? And so on, and so forth.
William Rutta at the summit.

Thursday, 16 June 2011

Mary Kalikawe and William Rutta reach the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro: post 2 of 4

Mary Kalikawe is the Managing Director of Kiroyera Consulting, a tourism company based in Bukoba which opened a branch office in Mwanza in 2010. She joined the 3rd Annual Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Climb in December 2010. 

While I set off from the west with Jaffar Amin from Londrossi Gate on 7th December 2010 on the Lemosho route, Mary and William Rutta also set off from the east from Marangu Gate on the Machame route. 

In this second of four posts she shares her experience of climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro.
Mary Kalikawe
A day before the beginning of the gruesome climb, I and William Rutta, Chairman of BUDAP, met Madaraka and Tshombe Jaffar in Moshi at a press conference arranged to publicize the event. It was an uplifting feeling to be in the presence of these two great sons of Africa who are putting reconciliation ahead of a now forgotten bitter history.
At the press conference: L-R, Mary Kalikawe, Madaraka Nyerere, Jaffar Amin, and William Rutta.
Tshombe Jaffar, father of five children, now running a private business in Dubai is a flamboyant cheerful character. He is very dark like his father, tall and on the handsome side. He is a writer like Madaraka and has a keen interest in history, especially of his tribe and its legends. He talks of his youth and the many questions he used to ask his father. He tells of some harsh treatment he sometimes got from school from those who would dare not confront his father but found Tshombe’s then docile character a room to revenge. They pinched him for being a Moslem and for being the son of the ruling president. It made them happy, a little revenge that they got away with. 
Coffee break after the press conference. L-R, William Rutta, Mary Kalikawe, and Jaffar Amin.
Tshombe Jaffar believes the exceptional fame in the two names of their respective fathers, Idd Amin Dada and that of Mwalimu Nyerere should be harnessed to draw development to the East African nations. Why should all the books and movies on his father go without any yield, he asks? Other clever people are earning big money on his name, he laments.

Wednesday, 15 June 2011

Mary Kalikawe and William Rutta reach the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro: post 1 of 4

Mary Kalikawe is the Managing Director of Kiroyera Consulting, a tourism company based in Bukoba which opened a branch office in Mwanza in 2010. She joined the 3rd Annual Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Climb in December 2010. 

While I set off from the west with Jaffar Amin from Londrossi Gate on 7th December 2010 on the Lemosho route, Mary and William Rutta also set off from the east from Marangu Gate on the Marangu route. 

In this first of four posts she shares her experience of climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro.
Mary Kalikawe

It all goes back to SNV, the Netherlands Development Organisation, linking people’s capacities and supporting the development of Tanzania’s tourism sector. During my assignment with SNV in the Lake Zone I got acquainted with the village of Butiama, the home and burial location of Tanzania’s founding president, the late Mwalimu Julius K. Nyerere. The objective of a meeting with tourism cultural stakeholders at Butiama was to contribute further to developing Butiama as a notable tourist historical site. During the visit, Madaraka Nyerere, who is one of the sons of the Late Mwalimu Nyerere, briefed me of his annual fundraising event – The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb.
Elias, a member of BUDAP in Bukoba.
I indicated my interest to participate in the charity climb and we mutually agreed that Bukoba Disabled Assistance Project (BUDAP) should be a twin beneficiary, alongside the Chief Edward Wanzagi Girls’ Secondary School, as a beneficiary for the charity funds raised during the 2010 climb.
The author of this blog, second from right, with members of BUDAP. From left, Baraka, Ashirafu, Themistocles, and Elias at their Bukoba premises.

Kiroyera encouraged the formation of BUDAP some 6 years ago with the idea that tourism could be helpful in creating jobs for polio victims of Bukoba who were roaming the streets begging. BUDAP’s members produce African drums, dolls, handbags and other souvenirs that are sold to tourists, and the local community. BUDAP is a model of pro poor tourism.
William Rutta (left) BUDAP's Chairman with me at BUDAP's premises in Bukoba.
I decided that Madaraka was not going to do the 2010 Mt. Kilimanjaro climb alone. In recent years he has developed a friendship with Tshombe Jaffar Remo Amin, the son of the late Idi Amin Dada, former ruler of Uganda.

More than 30 years ago, Tanzania went to war against Uganda while their fathers were the respective leaders of the two countries. The war left many tragedies in both countries. To Ugandans Tanzanians are liberators who ended Idi Amin’s reign.

Saturday, 11 June 2011

The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb 2010 (post 12 of 12)

Next to reaching the summit, the most satisfying part of the climb is receiving the certificates for climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro. The honour for handing over the certificates rests with the people who led us to the peak and back to the comfort of Springlands Hotel, where the expedition began.
First in line was Jaffar (left) receiving his certificate issued by the Kilimanjaro National Parks Authority (KINAPA), handed to him by Solomon (right)
Then Ludovick (right) stepped in front of the camera to hand over Zara Tanzania Adventures' certificate to Jaffar (left)
Moments later, it was my turn (left) to receive my KINAPA certificate from Solomon (right)
And finally, Ludovick (right) stepped in view again to handover my certificate from Zara Tanzania Adventures.
We received two sets of certificates each, one issued by the Kilimanjaro National Parks Authority (KINAPA) and another issued by Zara Tanzania Adventures, the company that organizes the Kilimanjaro climbs.

Posts related to this one:
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2011/06/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro_9.html
http://blogkili.blogspot.com/2010/12/the-mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro_28.html